Crack Where Ceiling Meets Wall
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And where the wall meets the ceiling, it’s starting to separate. There’s a lot of cracking there. You can see where the taping is and it’s starting to separate and there’s even a crack going out from the corner about 6 inches. So first of all, drywall cracks, especially at intersections like that, are pretty typical. Greetings, We purchased our townhome in Northern Virginia in 2014 and recently started noticing some cracks where the ceiling and wall meet. The house was built in 2009 and is three stories tall. All of the cracking appears to be occurring on the top level of the townhome, primarily in the master bathroom and one of the other bedrooms.
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Crack Where Ceiling Meets Wall
When winter came, cracks appeared along ceiling & wall joints on one wall. I attributed it to ‘settling’. I didn’t have time to deal with it so waited. When spring arrived, the cracks disappeared, you could not even see an indication of them. So I waited and sure enough the cracks re-appeared as winter 2017-2018 arrived. When the roof truss pulls upward, it may lift the ceiling drywall along with it, creating a crack between the wall and the ceiling.
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When a horizontal gap appears along the top of the wall, the likely culprit is truss uplift. Roof trusses, unlike roof rafters, attach only to specific walls plates. On other walls, the bottom chord of the truss lies on the plate but the roof builder does not attach it. Trusses are specifically engineered to move as a unit if the wood expands due to heat or humidity in an attic. This is an unwelcome, but not uncommon, problem with roof trusses. As the bottom chord expands, it bows upward, lifting the ceiling drywall with it and creating a gap between the wall and the ceiling.
Re-Tape
The least expensive method of repairing the crack involves re-taping the horizontal seam where the wall meets the ceiling. Before applying a new drywall corner bead and drywall joint compound to the crack, scrape torn bits of paper and dried compound off, and sand about 2 inches along the top of the wall and the edge of the ceiling. After filling the crack with new drywall compound and fitting a new corner bead in place, use an inside-corner taping trowel to create a crisp seam. After the compound dries, sand it and paint the wall and ceiling to match the existing colors.
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The problem with re-taping is that another crack can appear in the same spot if the truss isn’t done moving. Typically, a truss is more likely to move within the first year after construction. After that, truss movement gradually slows as the wood in the truss ages. To avoid having to re-tape many times, monitor the depth of the crack over a year. When the size of the crack hasn’t increased for at least six months, go ahead and re-tape.
Camouflage the Crack
The second least expensive method for fixing the problem is to camouflage the crack by installing crown molding along the top of the wall. The trick to doing this successfully is to choose a dark molding, such as an oak or walnut stain, and nail it only to the wall. After pushing the molding up to cover the crack, attach it with finish nails, inserting one into each wall stud, but do not nail the molding to the ceiling. If the truss moves again and pulls the ceiling drywall upward, it’s less likely that the resulting crack will be noticed above the dark molding than it would be above light-colored molding.
Float the Trusses
The only permanent way to fix the separation between the top of the wall and the ceiling involves loosening the drywall panels where they connect to the bottom of the truss and then attaching the panels to blocks installed between the trusses on the top wall plate. Called 'truss floating,' this project requires attic access, and it’s a job for an experienced framing contractor. The contractor will loosen the drywall paneling from the bottom truss chord and will push the edges of the paneling downward. He will install blocks on the top wall plate to hold the drywall down. The seam must be re-taped.
If the truss lifts again after that, it won’t pull the ceiling drywall up with it, so no crack will ensue. Many builders float the trusses during the initial installation of drywall.
Attic Ventilation
Wood is a product of nature, and it moves. Green wood, which is new and still slightly damp, moves more than seasoned wood. When subjected to heat and high humidity, almost all wood will move to some extent. The best way to reduce truss uplift is to ventilate the attic. Cool fresh air should enter the attic through soffit vents installed in the roof eaves and exit the attic at the highest point possible, typically through a ridge vent, static vents or a fan-powered vent.
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About the Author
Glenda Taylor is a contractor and a full-time writer specializing in construction writing. She also enjoys writing business and finance, food and drink and pet-related articles. Her education includes marketing and a bachelor's degree in journalism from the University of Kansas.
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